NYC Fashion Week - Spring/Summer 2017 (Carlin Creative Trend Bureau)

And what if we talked about other things than « show now, buy now»?

Yeezy - Photo Jackie Nickerson Vogue Runway

We all know, Hilfiger, Ford and Thakoon have presented autumn-winter collections, immediately for sale after the show, and this while normally the spring-summer 17 calendar should be applicable. Thus we will see very soon if this purely commercial strategy will keep its promises… top or flop ?
But as is, fashion is elsewhere! So it’s full steam ahead for spring summer 17 and the Big Apple’s catwalks with Carlin Creative Trend Bureau.

Urban Vestal

Halfway between the « health-goth » and a sophisticated crypto-90’s allure, here is what New York knows how to do best: Black and white, an inspired post-gender modernity, for an urban poetess both intellectual and sensual.

Alexander Wang  - Photo Yannis Vlamos Vogue Runway

Narciso Rodriguez  - Photo Yannis Vlamos Vogue Runway

Vera Wang  - Photo Yannis Vlamos Vogue Runway

Alexander Wang continues his quest of the ideal urban silhouette, both sharp and sporty; the tailoring is skillfully de-structured at Narciso Rodriguez who strongly works on cuts, while Vera Wang marks here a beautiful collection injecting a touch of romance and drama into the story.

Shirting Story

The masculine shirt continues its mutation and the American designers are very much at ease in this kind of exercise, quite familiar to them. Even though the passion of shirting was initiated much earlier and has been fully treated, the interest and the possibilities of the garment don’t seem to weaken across the Atlantic.

Alexander Wang  - Photo Yannis Vlamos Vogue Runway

Milly Photo  - Umberto Fratini Vogue Runway

Rag & Bone  - Photo Yannis Vlamos Vogue Runway

Long and sober at Rag & Bone, the shirt is worn as a tunic or a dress to layer, while at Alexander Wang  - him again – the play is more on mock two-pieces in white with thin masculine stripes and short proportions. As for Milly, she twists the codes of the shirt but integrated in a very feminine and dashing collection, easy to wear.
 
Color Asymmetry

No, there is not only black and white and shirting on the New-York catwalks! We could also see interesting graphical silhouettes full of energy, assuming color and giving pride to asymmetry.

Boss Photo Yannis Vlamos Vogue Runway

Proenza Schouler  - Photo Monica Feudi Vogue Runway

Victoria Beckham Photo Luca Tombolini Vogue Runway

Madame Beckham is British without a doubt, but her asserted fashion has reached an international radiance ; in New York she presented a collection with innovative cuts, especially focused on the dress, with as a bonus a passionate variation on crushed velvet , treated in a very contemporary version. Boss proposes an efficient and graphic collection replaying  the color-block partition, while the Proenza Schouler duo, very much in shape, follows their quest of high visual-impact modernity , with a collection made of « statement pieces ».

 Active-Romance

Softness meeting sporty allures is probably one of the most interesting proposals of the NewYork catwalks. And at Carlin, we particularly appreciated the work of the DKNY duo, proposing a gracious and hyper-contemporary fusion of softness in a streetwear outfit, applause !

DKNY Photo Luca Tombolini Vogue Runway

Lacoste Photo Umberto Fratini Vogue Runway

Band of Outsiders Photo Monica Feudi Vogue Runway

Lacoste continues to develop its fashion universe both fresh and invigorating; with this season a particularly inspired and renewed interpretation. At Band of Outsiders, one designs the wardrobe of the ideal young female New-Yorker, healthy and trendy, at the same time romantic, avant-garde and cool, a great schedule!

To discover the work of Raf Simons, defector of Dior taking over control at Calvin Klein, we will have to be patient until next season, yes, time will be long, that much  this nomination seams promising and pertinent.

And finally, how not to salute the « king of New-York », to end in beauty this New York fashion-week!? Thank you for reminding us that fashion can also be something festive, glamorous and not serious, we almost forgot !

Marc Jacobs Photo Umberto Fratini Vogue Runway

Thank you Mr Jacobs !
 
By Thomas Zylberman for Carlin Creative Trend Bureau
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